BUDA type DA 100
Diesel Marine Engine
“The fault is within thyself”



There are 2 grease cups below the water pump – These should be checked periodically and tightened, or refilled with the goop in the silver can under the sink

There are several oil cups in the engine – refer to manual. One on the starter, one near the water pump, and I think one more. Lubricate with a few drops of machine oil (I use 3 in one)

Steering——Keep the bicycle chain well greased to prevent rust – It is a special double sprocket chain I ordered through Willawaw in Port Townsend (bicycle shop and artist studio). Keep the rudder post lubricated and moving while hauled out.

Vinegar – you already know about vinegar spray for wood – also give the stuffing box a healthy spritz of this to keep the white fuzzy stuff down –

Changing engine oil

Some ingenious soul mounted a drain for the oil pan attached to a hose with a drill pump (normally you’d have to siphon out the top). Screw the oil changing hose (under sink) to the drill pump hose  (located under the galley), prime the hose attachment with engine oil before you start the drill otherwise you’ll be there a very long time wearing down your drill batteries


Removing the cables from the batteries when the boat isn’t in use prolongs their life immensely. They’re incredibly expensive (2-300 dollars apiece), and invaluable, so you want to keep them in good shape, check the water level and the charge with the liquid battery tester in the drawer by the sink. You should top these off with a charger but ask Colin how often.   Please go to Colin ((360) 385-3780) with any questions. He’s the most knowledgeable of anyone I’ve ever talked to. and he’s always glad to help.

Not all 8D batteries are alike, you need Cold Cranking batteries…ask Colin before wasting money on the wrong kind (I almost did this)

I use the Interstate Workaholics – I think these are the ones.


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